Gold Standard Fuel Tank Sealer Instructions
Gold Standard Fuel Tank Sealer is a superior, single component, ready-to-use sealer specifically formulated for coating the inside of steel, aluminum & fiberglass tanks. Widely recommended & easy-to-use, this single coat application cures into a tough fuel impervious seal and prevents the return of rust, corrosion and clogged carburetors. And yet amazingly, this rock hard interior seal remains flexible enough to withstand vibration as well as the repeated expansion & contraction of the tank! Other sealers on the market are little more than paint or adhesive-type coatings which have poor sealing abilities especially when exposed to today’s fuels. Gold Standard is unique in that it will penetrate and galvanize itself to the tank to completely seal the surface.
Use Gold Standard in conjunction with KBS AquaKlean (a water-based, heavy-duty, cleaner/degreaser) and KBS RustBlast (a powerful rust remover/phosphoric acid metal etch) to obtain a permanently sealed, rust-free fuel tank. KBS prep products are formulated with a unique Oxygen-Block Technology which reduces the occurrence of flash rust by over 80% and extends rust-free storage times by leaving a temporary protective coating in addition to a zinc phosphate film. See also Fuel Tank Sealer Flow Chart.
PROTECTIVE GLOVES AND SAFETY GLASSES SHOULD BE WORN AT ALL TIMES WHEN USING THESE PRODUCTS.
Ideal Tank Sealer application temperatures are 13°- 28°C. Gold Standard Tank Sealer is a moisture-cured urethane therefore use only in moderate to dry atmospheric conditions. Avoid sealing tank in extreme wet or humid conditions. If the Sealer cures too quickly, surface bubbling will occur as a direct result of gas entrapment beneath the top surface layer of the Sealer.
NOTE: If you are sealing a Fiberglass Tank, please refer to additional instructions provided. Gold Standard Tank Sealer is not recommended for plastic tanks because of the many different types & varying levels of porosities available.
All tanks, whether old or new, have oils, residues and contaminants that need to be thoroughly removed before sealing. The KBS 3-Step System is a specific process formulated to ensure superior adhesion of the coating & its long-term performance. Sealing a tank without proper prep will cause the new coating to fail. If a tank was previously sealed, the old coating must be removed first prior to using the KBS 3-Step System. Choose a paint stripper containing Methylene chloride for the most effective removal. Please refer to additional Tank Stripping instructions provided below.
STEP #1 – CLEANING
- Drain fuel from tank. Proper fuel tank sealing also requires that the tank be removed from the vehicle. Remove any fittings such as floats, sending units and filters
- Seal all openings with duct tape or cork-like stoppers.
- Using a 1:1 dilution ratio, mix AquaKlean with hot water and pour mixture into tank. Let tank soak but always rotate it at intervals to ensure AquaKlean covers all surfaces. (NOTE: Heavy gum and varnish build-up may require extended soaking times up to 24 hours or more and/or the use of a pressure washer. Placing some nuts & bolts or loose chains inside the tank, along with frequent shaking and rotation, will help knock away loose rust and contaminants.)
- Empty tank and repeat as often as necessary … remember the cleaner the tank, the stronger the adhesion of the Tank Sealer.
- After a thorough cleaning, rinse generously with water until the solution runs clear. Drain tank and let dry.
STEP #2 – SURFACE PREP / RUST REMOVAL
- Pour entire amount of RustBlast into a dry tank. Do not dilute. Continually roll tank around to ensure all surfaces are kept wet. Repeat rolling and tipping tank every 5 minutes for a minimum of 20 minutes but no longer than 1 hour. RustBlast is an acid metal etch that will neutralize existing rust & also create an anchor pattern ideal for Sealer adhesion.
- Important: Do not allow RustBlast to dry on surface. After sufficient contact, drain RustBlast and rinse tank thoroughly several times with water. NOTE: It is not necessary to remove every last bit of rust before sealing. Gold Standard Tank Sealer is very capable of bonding to & permanently sealing any remaining rust or corrosion.
- After rinsing, allow tank to dry completely before proceeding. Drying is best accomplished by introducing forced air into the tank by using a shop vac, blow dryer, or fan. A visible white powdery residue may appear after drying. This is a zinc phosphate coating advantageous for Sealer adhesion. NOTE: Drying is a critical step. If the tank is not completely dry, the Sealer will not adhere properly.
STEP #3 – SEALING TANK
- Open Sealer and stir can thoroughly. Touch bottom & lift when stirring to raise & disperse any settled silver pigment. DO NOT WHIP OR SHAKE can as this will introduce air, create bubbles in the Sealer and adversely affect the sealing process.
- Carefully pour entire contents of can into tank and slowly rotate and roll tank until all sides are evenly coated. Patiently work with it for up to 30 minutes. Please note that our Tank Sealer is formulated for use as a single thin coat application so make sure you take the time to thoroughly coat the entire tank well paying particular attention to all weld seams & pinholes for optimal coverage & seal.
- IMPORTANT: After a thorough coating, patiently DRAIN ALL EXCESS SEALER from tank for at least 30 minutes or more before placing it down for full cure to eliminate the occurrence of pooling & puddles. If the design of the tank makes complete draining difficult, rotate the tank frequently into different positions during this time to help minimize excess accumulation in any single area. Foaming & bubbling are signs of excessive Sealer accumulation and gas entrapment due to ineffective drainage. In some cases, this may cause the Sealer to not adhere properly and eventually break loose. Be aware that if this situation should occur, the only recourse is to strip the tank and repeat the process.
- Immediately use any left-over Sealer for exterior patching to reinforce repair of pinholes & weld seams (see further patching info below).
- Immediately remove any excess Sealer from threads and fuel lines before curing. Cured Sealer cannot be removed by any solvent. When job is complete, place remaining Sealer in can with lid off and let harden. (WARNING: Do not put lid on can before curing is complete as pressure may build within can and pop lid! Dispose of any hardened Sealer properly in accordance with federal, state, and local regulations.)
- Allow tank to air-dry naturally in a well-ventilated area. Do not heat or place in hot sun. Allow 96 hours for maximum cure and before re-filling with fuel.
EXTERIOR TANK PATCHING (IF NECESSARY)
Use fibreglass mesh for repair of pinholes that are too large to be plugged by our Sealer alone. Prior to patching, prep the outside and inside of the tank by using AquaKlean and RustBlast and allow the surfaces to completely dry. Begin by sealing the inside of the tank as outlined above. Immediately use any remaining Sealer to paint a thin layer on the outside weakened tank area(s). Using a suitably sized piece of mesh, embed it directly into the wet Sealer, when first coat is tack dry, and apply another thin coat of Sealer painting outward from the centre. Let cure.
Use KBS #1 Thinner for immediate clean up. IMPORTANT: Gold Standard Tank Sealer must be cleaned up before it dries as it cannot be removed by any solvent once cured. Always wear protective gloves to avoid skin contact and temporary staining. If skin contact accidentally occurs, immediately remove with #1 Thinner or lacquer thinner followed by soap and water. If Gold Standard should stain your skin, only the course of time will remove it.
STRIPPING (IF NECESSARY)
Choose a paint stripper containing methylene chloride to remove any old tank sealer – we recommend KBS Paint Stripper. Pour stripper into tank. Carefully rotate tank to allow contact with all sides. When stripping a Fiberglass Tank, contact with the stripping agent should be kept to a minimum to avoid the attack & weakening of the fiberglass resin. NOTE: It may take multiple applications of stripper to finish the job completely. Old Sealer may come loose in big chunks or small pieces so use a long tweezers-type tool to help remove it from the tank. After stripping is complete, rinse tank generously with water and proceed with the KBS 3-Step System for Fuel Tank Preparation & Sealing.
The procedure for sealing a Fiberglass Tank is the same except for a variance in Step #2 – RustBlast. For this type of tank, thoroughly wet the fiberglass surface for only 2 minutes with RustBlast. Drain and rinse well with water as directed. Because you are not prepping metal or dissolving rust, RustBlast may be saved and re-used for future use. RustBlast will, however, treat the fiberglass surface by giving it a more acidic pH level & by leaving a zinc phosphate coating ideal for sealer adhesion.
Also, it is important to make sure that the tank is completely dry inside before sealing. Drying is best accomplished by introducing forced air into the tank by using a shop vac, blow dryer, or fan. NOTE: Drying is a critical step for sealing fiberglass tanks. Fiberglass tends to hold moisture and if the tank is not dried completely, the sealer will not adhere properly.
IMPORTANT: It is also very critical to methodically coat the entire fiberglass tank completely & thoroughly with the Sealer. However, if any part of the fiberglass surface should accidentally be left exposed or unsealed, these unprotected areas will be very susceptible to deterioration by alcohol blended fuels. Therefore, it is highly recommended that alcohol blended fuels not be used in fiberglass tanks even after sealing.
QUESTIONS & TIPS
Q. Does duct tape provide a sufficient seal to allow you to rotate, turn & invert the tank without the Sealer spilling all over the place?
A. Yes, duct tape or electrical tape works well. Also, a piece of cork or rubber will seal small tubes.
Q. What’s the best way to prevent the Sealer from getting on the screw threads?
A. Apply a small amount of oil (WD-40 or similar) to the threads, and if the Sealer dries on those threads, it will peel right off.
Q. What’s the best way to remove the Sealer from the fairly small “L” shaped protrusions on the underside of each side of the tank?
A. If you can’t get to it from the inside, use pipe cleaners or cotton swabs to remove the Sealer from these tubes before it cures.
Q. Any other tips, “tricks of the trade”, suggestions, etc.?
A. Just remember to be sure the tank is completely dry before using the Sealer. Apply a thin film of oil wherever you don’t want the Sealer to stick. Do not allow the Sealer to “puddle” in the tank. If the tank has baffles or a design which does not allow for complete draining of the excess Sealer, keep rotating the tank (every 10 min or so) as the Sealer cures to help prevent pooling & puddles.